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Good to know
How to chooseHow to choose cycling sunglassesOn a bike, wind, grit and low sun come at you directly, so coverage comes first. A tall shield lens protects more of the eye area...
Read the guide
On a bike, wind, grit and low sun come at you directly, so coverage comes first. A tall shield lens protects more of the eye area and stays in your view when you are tucked low and looking up the road. Look for vents at the top of the lens to keep it clear on climbs, and a frame light enough to forget after an hour.
Most frames here are WAKE UP shields in lightweight nylon. The Suture Jacket 1096 and the Flakx 1097 have adjustable nose pads, so you can set the lens height under a helmet. The Touring 1035 and the Skyline 1043 use grip coating instead. The Tidal Gradient 1020 also comes with a clear lens for early and late rides.
More on single lens frames in the guide to shield sunglasses, and on side coverage in the wraparound sunglasses guide.
What makes a frame right for cycling?
Coverage and stability. The front curves with the face so wind and light do not come in at the sides, and the arms grip rather than rest, because a frame that moves at 20 miles an hour is a frame you take off.
Do cycling sunglasses fog?
Any frame close to the face can fog when you stop. Venting at the top of the lens clears it faster than a sealed shield, which is why most of these frames are cut with a gap above the brow.
Can I wear these off the bike?
The shallower wraps read as ordinary sunglasses and are worn for driving and walking as much as riding. The deeper shields look like what they are.
Will they fit a low nose bridge?
Yes. Several have adjustable nose pads or grip coating, so the frame sits on the nose rather than sliding onto the cheeks once you start sweating.
Still deciding? Contact us and we will help you choose.
